Fashion’s Go-To Architect on a Downfall of Department Stores and a …

December 3, 2014 - accent chair

The proceed we emporium is undergoing a radical shift. Forces like e-commerce, globalization, and mobile record have been impacting normal patterns of expenditure for some-more than a decade, and their effects are increasingly absolute any day. To improved understand the opportunities and hurdles presented by this transformation, Style.com editor in arch Dirk Standen set out to pronounce to a number of streamer figures in a sell industry, including Bottega Veneta engineer Tomas Maier, Yoox.com owner Federico Marchetti, and Barneys New York CEO Mark Lee. For a fourth installment, he spoke to Peter Marino, who, as a adored store engineer for brands like Chanel and Louis Vuitton, has finished a career of reckoning out how to set a oppulance knowledge apart.

Peter Marino, a engineer and interior designer, takes no prisoners. That’s apparent in all from a proceed he dresses—the barbarous head-to-toe leather getups, finish with a appearance tip that conceals a black mohawk—to a proceed he talks—a tide of no-holds-barred opinion, voiced in an accent that hovers closer to England than his internal New York. In an age of focus-group-driven conformity, we clarity that his gallantry is a pivotal lift for a patron list that reads like an A-to-Z of oppulance brands. (“X is for a ones I’ve incited down,” he jokes.) we spoke to him progressing this tumble as he was scheming several new boutiques around a universe for long-standing clients like Chanel, Zegna, and Louis Vuitton; a judgment store in South Korea called Boon a Shop; countless residential projects; and an muster during a Bass Museum of Art in Miami, opening Dec 4, that showcases both his career and his unusual art collection. Sitting in his bureau high above Manhattan, Marino started sketching on a sheaf of paper, and before we knew it, a review had incited from rudimentary tiny speak to a transparent ratiocination of a stream sell scene.

Chapter 1

Photo: Courtesy of Dior

What arrange of trends are we observant opposite a sell landscape?

If we competence contend something, my career has seen what we call a arise of oppulance boutiques. we mean, oppulance boutiques used to be right here [sketches on paper] with Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus dialect stores 20 years ago, and a boutique was 1,000 block feet. Now we do Chanels that are 10,000 block feet and [Louis] Vuittons that are 30. Nobody thinks a dialect store is a oppulance offered knowledge anymore. Nobody. That’s in a middle, and afterwards we go down and during a bottom you’ll have HM in a front and immature things. So a trend unequivocally was oppulance boutiques, and we cruise due to a financial universe they became Wall Street-backed firms. Hermès went public. Prada went public. LVMH is public. They got outrageous financing, hence they were enabled to go this proceed [draws an adult arrow], and a dialect stores unfortunately got held in that junk-bond disaster of a ’90s, trade hands 50 times, and they’re all pennyless and they all have disastrous income flow, so they’re going this proceed [draws a down arrow]. The reduce finish is fine. HM is fine. And a oppulance brands are fine. And to me … a dialect knowledge in any way, shape, and form is a downer.

Do we cruise that trend will continue?

Oh, that we don’t know. [But] we don’t see any of a unequivocally essential companies offered dialect stores. we don’t see LVMH observant like, “Oh, yeah, we unequivocally wish Saks.” It’s been for sale 5 times … They wish to do what they’re good at, and a oppulance brands have been really good during pulling themselves divided and enmity themselves from this, what we call really unpleasant offered experience. we meant … Have we been to Bloomingdale’s lately? People lift you. we mean, they just push you. we theory if we like subways …

It used to be unequivocally many partial of my weekend: a amicable knowledge of going to a store like Barneys, observant what was new, maybe eating during a restaurant. It was partial of a recreation. And afterwards maybe we bought something, maybe we didn’t, depending, though we feel that’s altered now. And partial of that, we think, is that everything’s online, so we don’t need to go to a store customarily to see what’s new.

You don’t need to go to browse. The browsing aspect of sell offered is over, is what you’re saying? That’s substantially true. I’ll give we some humorous statistics given we always get these from a brands. At a tip oppulance boutiques, for any 4 business who go in, customarily one creates an tangible purchase. That astounded me. we said, “Really? What do a other 3 do? Are they customarily tourists?” They go, “Well, no. They competence say, ‘I’ll come back, reason a merchandise.’ They competence say, ‘Give me a number,’ and afterwards go home and buy it in Dallas given they competence be a traveller and they don’t wish to make a rushed decision.” It means that customarily 25 percent of people who go into a oppulance boutique make an tangible squeeze now. we don’t know a statistics in these other ones, I’m customarily giving we what we know is a basket of 5 oppulance brands, that we find an engaging statistic, given we always get shaken that if that series goes down, maybe they’ll stop employing me. [laughs] Like, 1 out of 10? Who needs stores? But a opinion of a oppulance brands, that we cruise is so clever, is for all 4 out of a 4 people who go into a store, we have to make it an aspirational experience. When we non-stop Chanel in London, they were happy. People would go, “Oh, we customarily came in to see it. It’s so beautiful.” And we leave with a certain opinion toward a brand. Now, we don’t unequivocally get that online. You don’t go like, “Wow.” It’s roughly clinical—I wish to see a garments and we wish to cruise them and we wish to see that instruction fashion’s streamer in. It’s unequivocally opposite from what we do, that is perplexing to make an sourroundings where a whole package is unequivocally fascinating so that those 4 people who leave a door, hopefully all 4 of them wish to go back, all 4 of them will say, “God, that was a fanciful experience.” we get fan e-mails from a lot of my stores, customarily all over a world, though utterly a Chanel in London. If we do a unequivocally pleasing one. We customarily non-stop a Chanel in Hamburg. It got a slew of e-mails. People are like, “Oh! Love this, adore that.” And they were unequivocally specific. “I desired that bullion coffee list in a showroom!” It’s so funny. It was unequivocally lovable and intimate. People never did that before, and now we customarily have these kinds of messages, and we do feel a tiny bit some-more in reason with a customers.

“Have we been to Bloomingdale’s lately? People push you. we mean, they customarily lift you. we theory if we like subways…”

That’s good.

Yeah, it’s good, and I’m revelation we what a brands wish me to do. Of march they wish me to benefaction a sell in a pleasing proceed and make as many sales as possible, though it is unequivocally many now deliberate roughly an promotion eventuality for a brand. In a aged days it wasn’t advertising—you customarily had to sell a stuff. That opinion for a oppulance is: Don’t customarily press and make them sell. Present it beautifully. Don’t make it rushed. Don’t make it pushed. Make a offered knowledge some-more what we pronounced it was in a aged days. I’m unequivocally unapproachable of we carrying said, “I used to crop by Barneys,” given we combined Barneys for that unequivocally reason—browsing with a reduction of cafés and where it would be good to go.

Have we been in lately?

No, we won’t go in to see that awful gray building given they pulled out my mosaics. It’s appalling.

[Barneys CEO] Mark [Lee] told me he attempted all to save it, though he felt too many repairs had been finished to a mosaic to revive it to what it was.

I had finished it customarily like Liberty of London, that lasted 100 years. Didn’t even final 20. It’s unequivocally telling, no? But a trend, where it’s going, we have no suspicion given it always moves so many faster than we think. we haven’t gotten new directions from my clients recently as they’re posterior opposite directions. Remember, we do for comparison brands what are called a “star boutiques.” If Vuitton is building 40 stores this year, I’ll do 3 during a unequivocally top, a largest ones, where we set new cultured directions that a others follow. We have a new engineer during Vuitton. Obviously, Raf [Simons] is a new engineer during Dior.

Tell me how that works. There’s so many behind-the-scenes coverage of conform shows and designers. we cruise people have a flattering good suspicion of how a conform engineer works and what their routine is. But what we do, we cruise it’s a bit some-more mysterious, right?

I’m not revelation anybody given I’ve got a singular career here and we make a ruin of a lot of money. Are we crazy? I’m not going to give tips to a immature architect! Tell them to go fuck themselves. we don’t know. [laughs] It’s taken a looooong time to get here, buddy!

But, we mean, how does it start? The CEO or an executive comes to we and says, “We wish to do…”

It’s always during a top. It’s a tip of a company. Any association that a tip doesn’t proceed me, we don’t even lapse a phone call. It’s from a top. I’m a conduct of my company, we pattern a conduct of theirs. And we have flattering critical discussions about where a code is going, and we work unequivocally closely with their promotion teams and a visible merchandising teams and a designers’ direction, given in today’s universe you’ve got to all lift in a same accurate direction. You can’t have, like, a swarming visible merchandising engineer and afterwards a minimalist wardrobe designer. That’s not going to work. we always make play and we go, “Have we got this right?” Is this code some-more meddlesome in peculiarity or glamour? We get a kind of what we call “brand values.” Every code has opposite values of what they’re unequivocally meddlesome in. And it is engaging given any of my brands we always have treated like a private residential client, as opposite people, and I’m customarily doing another home for their personality. Because they go, “Oh, how can we do so many opposite looks? You’re doing 12 sell stores.” we go, “Well, I’ve got 12 sell clients—no dual homes demeanour alike.” In fact, if we did, someone competence upset me with, we don’t know, Mario Buatta. No, though nothing of my homes demeanour a same, and I’m not meddlesome in rubber-stamping an cultured as in a Richard Meier and white steel for 25 years. we suspect if we wish to settle a brand, that’s one proceed to do it and have people buy your look. we don’t do that—I’m some-more meddlesome in a tiny bit of input. I’m like a psychiatrist, digesting it and spitting it out with a visible equation, and that’s what we find kind of fun … And in terms of trends in sell boutiques, we can, if we may, customarily give we a brief investigate of where we see that. You’ve got what we call a “young kids.” we mean, a Alexander Wangs, a J.W. Andersons, and all. They’re all going to a arrange of minimalism. Easy concept, one-concept stores, immature child stores, that kind of minimalism. Then you’ve got another trend, that is a kind of maximilism and chuck all into it, that is like Dover Street Market. And it’s not customarily Dover Street that’s doing that, where they visually give you so much disharmony that you’re entertained or amused. What that’s done, by carrying that split, is for us, we have to be dreadfully careful given we never in life in anything wish to be in a middle. So a vast brands are sanctimonious to possibly go this proceed or this way. If you’re in a middle, afterwards you’re a dialect store, and that’s going a wrong way. You’ll see a immature kids’ boutiques opening adult all over. we even call Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent one of a immature kids’ boutiques. The judgment is unequivocally simple—white marble and immaculate steel.

Are we astounded during how successful that concept’s been during Saint Laurent?

I don’t cruise it has anything to do with a shops. we cruise it has to do with a product. And I’d contend on that one, we cruise a shops are substantially not long-lived. we don’t know. But, we mean, wherever we have good product, you’re going to do OK. This trend of a immature kids’ shops, not some-more than dual or 3 colors and flattering simplistic—remember, those shops are unequivocally small. Can we suspect if we had 30,000 feet of that look? That’s not going to work! [laughs] The [Saint Laurent] one in Paris is 4 rooms, so it’s OK. All these immature kids’ shops are unequivocally small—1,000 feet, maybe one is 2,000. And it was even a same when Jil Sander did her thing. These were really small stores. And we remember when she did 57th Street, it was a initial minimalist demeanour and it was a same on 5 floors. That store was never successful. The one in Paris, that was dual floors, was extravagantly successful. And she had 5 floors of beige mill with one rod on 5 floors. It didn’t work. So minimalism is good for immature kids—it’s good experimentally and it’s unequivocally fun given we get one elementary suspicion and we get it out there and it’s unequivocally transparent and it’s good. It doesn’t work for some-more formidable brands that have genuine abyss of merchandise, and we can’t review companies that are $100 million a year in sales to ones that are, we know, 10 billion. There’s a big gulf.

Chapter 2

Photo: Courtesy of Chanel

How many of what we do is art contra science? It sounds like it’s some-more art, a proceed you’ve described it so far, though we don’t know how many investigate we have about consumer patterns or what creates a consumer spend more.

I hate marketing and we hate marketers. we really, unequivocally do. Don’t ever put a McKinsey news in front of me given all that tells we is what has been. And when we get a list of questions that they ask, a questions are always angled to give we a certain answer, and we find these people are unequivocally off-trend and they try to emanate vast sensations to acquire their unequivocally high fees. I’m happy that they can get high fees, [but] we find that it’s a garland of kids from college, and when they benefaction things to my unequivocally vast brands, it’s unequivocally engaging given all of us go, “Really? Really? Really? Oh, oh, did we go to a store? Did we ask a chairman that?” we have to say, we never look during that shit. And we cruise that’s for supporters and we wish to be a personality and we wish to do something good. And if we don’t like it, OK, go to another store. You can't be an artist and try to suspect what people wish embellished for them. That’s deaf. Do your work and do it good and hopefully people will like it. You can ask all of my clients. Don’t uncover Peter a offered report. It’s some-more art than science. Having pronounced that, sell pattern is incredibly precise. And I’ve schooled over my 30-year career, if we pierce a belt opposite infrequently 4 feet, we can double sales. It’s crazy. Adjacencies, amounts … We had a certain code of belt business that was enormous. we mean, their annual belt business alone was bigger than any one of these companies put together. It was so funny. It was so many hundreds of millions. So we thought, OK, let’s try one shop. We had a room this size, customarily a belt room, thousands of belts, customarily fabulous. Let’s try to double that business. What happened? Sales went right down. We went behind to carrying tiny belt departments like this. It’s so crazy. You need a lot of experience—retail is not for a inexperienced. It’s unequivocally not. we can give we so many stories—how prolonged a headband opposite should be, during that indicate people get bored, during that indicate they go, “No, this isn’t Hermès anyway.” There has been, in my experience, a lot of hearing and error, and we can scold things by a minutest changes. As we said, if we customarily take that belt opposite that was here and we customarily pierce it 4 feet here … It’s nuts! I’ve seen watch businesses double by carrying a watch opposite put subsequent to this certain small-leather counter. We did this in Hong Kong, and it was like, “Are we kidding?” They went, “We’re not kidding. We don’t know given a watch sales in a final 3 months customarily doubled.” we mean, what happened? Did everybody remove their watches? Adjacencies unequivocally count.

Are there any tricks that we do to make this happen?

Well, we kill chickens before any store opening and we do other things we can’t speak about it. No, we must learn by hearing and error, and I’ve customarily about attempted everything. [laughs] So many other architects now are entering a sell field, so many, and I’m unequivocally amused given there are some unequivocally vast names. It competence not be as accurate as building a hospital, though we got to tell you, You unequivocally don’t know what you’re doing. we do, and that’s given we have a vast brands. we try to get a kids to do it and it takes years of training and it’s 5 to 7 years before they’re unequivocally sell experts. It is not intuitive. You have to learn it. It’s not intuitive. It’s not just supplement another 3 feet of handbags and you’ll make some-more sales. It isn’t.

And this is not something that record can change or make easier?

You know, Prada attempted that downtown with technological try-on bedrooms where we could see yourself on a computer. The computers lasted 3 days. They attempted a glass. They attempted computers. This whole thing of see-yourself-in-the-clothes? It’s a gimmick. It’s over. Computers are gimmicks. People need to try garments on. Clothes don’t cost $10 anymore, they cost $10,000. You have to take your time. You have to know what you’re doing … One clear trend in oppulance brands is try-on bedrooms removing bigger and bigger and bigger and bigger. Try-on bedrooms for women in London, these are now like bedrooms in an apartment. Women don’t wish to go into tiny boxes given they’re creation unequivocally complicated decisions and they wish to take their time. The normal try-on time during Louis Vuitton in New York is now over dual hours. You go in there, you’re holding your garments in, you’re investing a lot of time, we have 4 or 5 dresses to try on, you’re maybe going to go home with two, we wish to make a right decisions. And it’s not a tiny preference if you’re going to travel out with a $32,000 check. We’ve got to make that try-on room an experience. Always have tables, infrequently sofas if we can or during slightest dual chairs. They unequivocally mostly emporium with a friend, or a mom shops with her daughter—we find women emporium in clusters utterly a lot, so unequivocally gentle seating right outward a try-on for their friends. So a try-on knowledge is something that I’ve been focusing on a final 3 years and that has altered a lot … It’s indeed a hideously ungainly thing. It’s an ungainly thing. You’re holding your garments off and station there in your drawers with your hosiery on. Now, that’s not pretty. And we can’t tell me that’s elegant—unless you’re a arrange of Gisele Bündchen. It’s not a flattering experience. And women are station there in front of a three-way counterpart looking during themselves in their undies, we know what I’m saying? So, it’s that partial we find unequivocally essential and I’ve been focusing on.

What about a mirrors? we kind of feel we always cruise we don’t demeanour as good in a counterpart in a store as we cruise we demeanour in a counterpart during home. Is that customarily given you’re in a opposite environment?

Well, there’s an aged sell fun I’ll tell we from a commencement of my sell experience. You never wish to put some-more than a unequivocally brief side counterpart for women given if it’s a unequivocally vast one and she sees her full bum, 9 out of 10 will say, “My crippled doesn’t demeanour good in this. I’m not holding it.” So we try to proceed we to customarily see your front, that looks rather good. But a perspective from behind can be a bit telling.

“I hatred offered and we hatred marketers. Don’t ever put a McKinsey news in front of me given all that tells we is what has been.”

And what about a store assistants? That’s a outrageous partial of a experience, right? Do we have any control over that?

That’s not my thing. That’s a brand’s. we mean, they compensate commissions and high salaries, and a quarrel for good salespeople during a tip brands is intense. Really intense. And it creates a vast difference. I’ll always get from one of my lady customers, “Oh, so-and-so, my saleslady from Dior customarily altered to Chanel,” or clamp versa. They notice instantly. There are also dual kinds of sell offered experiences, that we don’t know if we comprehend this. There are what’s called “local customers,” and any singular store will be means to give we a statistic. And afterwards there’s what they call “touristic.” If, on your credit label or whatever it is, your residence is not local, they call that “touristic drivel,” and afterwards internal they call “localized” … Let’s contend in a city like New York, you’ll take a code and they’ll be means to tell you, “We’re 50 percent internal and 50 percent touristic.” What we all detected was, in any city, there’s one travel for a locals—and here, we have Madison—and one emporium for a tourists, right there on Fifth Avenue. And it’s crazy, that’s how it goes. In Paris, you’ll have Avenue Montaigne for a French and Champs-Élysées for a tourists. Every city. You have Sloane Street in London for a locals and we have Bond Street for a tourists. That’s fascinating to me.

Is that something that’s changed?

It’s spin some-more extreme. The locals really don’t wish to go to a emporium that is installed with tourists who are pulling them. The turnover of staff during these traveller shops is a lot higher. It’s unequivocally rough, a traveller shops. Whoa. People are there once and they’re typically not going to lapse … If you’ve got what we call a touristic shop, trade is going to be significantly higher, and if we have textiles here [in a internal shop] that take 10,000 rubs for a lifetime, this one [a traveller shop] we need 100,000 rubs given of a wear-and-tear … These are a heavy-traffic stores. The Vuitton emporium on Champs-Élysées, they get some-more visitors than a Louvre. we mean, it’s 7,000 to 12,000 people a day. Isn’t that a frightful number? Look, we don’t even know how many that is.

Do we pattern differently for those stores then?

Yeah. In touristic shops, we have to make a upsurge of trade unequivocally easy to know and discerning given they’re going to be there once. It’s not like we have a tiny emporium with a lady who will always know a elevator’s in a back, she takes it adult to her favorite seller. You’ve got to make all unequivocally obvious, and given they’re tourists, we don’t wish signs given nobody can even review it. Everything has to be unequivocally visual. Of course, we pattern unequivocally differently for traveller shops. It has to be many some-more open, many some-more apparent. The upsurge has to unequivocally be easy and you’ve got to see things quick. You can be many some-more insinuate and many some-more disdainful in what’s called a “local” shop.

Do we pattern unequivocally differently depending on a country? How many are we perplexing to settle a coherence of a code contra what feels right for a sold nation you’re in?

It’s in tiny ways, it’s not in vast ways, given people who are abounding adequate to emporium oppulance brands currently are utterly international. The business for all of my tip 12 brands are very good traveled, and they’ll even contend to me, “Oh, we like this store in Hong Kong improved than a one in London.” They actually make comments like that. And I’m going, “Well, what did we like about it?” They’re like, “Oh, we desired a fate on a third floor.” I’m like, “What?” They demeanour and they know a differences. You can’t ever repeat yourself. we never do a packet immature Prada blueprint and put it all over a world. we find that a bit “McDonald’s” in a approach. We always try to make any store opposite … [Coco] Chanel had coromandel screens all over a walls of a opening in her unit and we use coromandel a lot in Paris. When we were doing a initial integrate of boutiques in China, we went, “Coromandel Chinese screens in China?” That’s arrange of, like, unequivocally offered redolence to a French. we don’t know. we can’t explain it. They’re not going to find a Chinese shade … And in fact, they contend to me, a Chinese, “No, no, we wish to feel a Frenchness of Chanel. We wish to feel a Italian-ness of Bulgari.” It’s unequivocally interesting. Again, Bulgari has implausible Han Dynasty bronze Chinese vases in Rome, that customarily demeanour spectacularly outlandish and wonderful. If we put that in China, they would go, “Really? Seriously? What?” They wish to feel a nationality of a brand. So those collecting patterns reason in oppulance boutiques. What a European private chairman would collect and value as something outlandish and beautiful, that customarily doesn’t interpret behind when I’m doing Chanel in Thailand or Taiwan. But those are a informative differences we have to be supportive to.

Chapter 3

Ronnie Cutrone, Leather Biker Jacket, 2010; Lee Quinones, Leather Biker Jacket, 2010; Nate Lowman, Leather Biker Jacket, 2010; all from a One Way: Peter Marino exhibit during a Bass Museum of Art. Photo: Courtesy of Ronnie Cutrone; Lee Quinones; Nate Lowman; Courtesy of The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh

You mentioned a patron now is so good traveled. Everyone talks about a “one percent.” Have we seen a change from a abounding to a superrich?

The superrich don’t go to stores—they have couture, and [the couture houses] go to them. There’s no change. The superrich are not going by dress racks. They’re carrying Joel [Arthur] Rosenthal custom-make valuables for them and they’re carrying Dior custom-make dresses and they’re carrying custom-made shoes. That’s not who we are doing boutiques for. The superrich dress a tiny bit opposite from we and me. [laughs]

How are we means to work for Chanel and Dior and Zegna? we mean, that’s flattering unique, Peter.

Yeah. [laughs]

It is unique. I’m not certain we can discuss anyone else who…

…has those kinds of opposing things and will do Bulgari and Graff valuables and those vast competitors. we trust my clients know we don’t duplicate or repeat myself. But we am unequivocally artistic and I’ve got to give them new pattern solutions that are tailor-made. we mean, infrequently it gets snarky, though it’s customarily from some dreadfully mid-level executive who says, “Oh, there’s that chair in Vuitton—it’s a same arm as a one we did in Dior.” And I’m like, “What?” It’s like they’re going, “Well, your shoe has a heel and so does mine.” What? But it’s customarily some snarky, mid-level chairman who’s perplexing to measure points with a boss, and a trainer customarily says, “Shut up.” No, though we keep them distinct, and in a bureau any code has a apart room where we keep a code and a core and a values and a products apart from a other one. We don’t even brew teams. we don’t wish a same one meditative on dual opposite things. We’ve got unequivocally graphic teams, and as we said, Mrs. Smith unequivocally doesn’t wish to see her lounge in Mrs. Watson’s vital room. She really doesn’t. Not when she’s profitable these kinds of fees! So, we can honour a brands, too. But I’m unequivocally unapproachable given we cruise I’m unequivocally good during what we do. we mean, deliberation a watchful list of 17 brands that wish us to work for them, we cruise we contingency be unequivocally good during what we do. 

There are brands you’ll spin down?

Well, we adore that I’m forced to, ones that we would adore to work for, though we customarily go, we know, I’ve got to be realistic. We’ve got a staff of 185. we unequivocally don’t wish to grow anymore. And we pronounced that during 100. [laughs] And I’m still concerned in any project. we mean, I’m designing, and there’s customarily so many we can do. We’re forced to spin people down.

Tell me about Boon a Shop.

Boon a Shop is Mrs. Chung, who is a niece of Mr. Lee. It’s utterly sparkling for us given we’re building these dual white marble buildings in Korea and it was fascinating. She said, “I have followed your career given Barneys.” And she pulled out a portfolio of a strange Barneys photos and said, “Oh, we combined a code and it was lifestyle and we combined everything,” and we haven’t given Barneys finished a multibrand store. I’ve customarily worked with particular brands given we fundamentally swore never to do one again. It’s ruin on earth perplexing to prove a tradesman and a 50 designers who have shops. And it’s fundamentally a unequivocally churned message. It’s very, unequivocally tough to get good pattern in a mixed-brand store. But Mrs. Chung assured me that we could and that we would have a event to pattern a pattern and a interiors, that is unequivocally what we adore to do. we adore a whole package. we adore doing a architecture, we adore doing a interiors, we adore doing a furniture, we like doing a lighting, we like doing a graphics, we like doing a whole package. And this will be a initial multibrand store I’ve finished given Barneys in 1990, so it was like a 23-year exhale and it’s sparkling for me to see how we will emanate another code around an cultured formula. I’ll take we after to a room to uncover we a integrate of renderings. we cruise it’s impossibly beautiful. It’s unequivocally contemporary and it is a store for a subsequent 20 years. And it has customarily dual materials, that is possibly unequivocally severe petrify or unequivocally pleasing white marble. And afterwards a interior, we have blackened steel fixtures. we cruise it’s utterly beautiful.

“I never do a packet immature Prada blueprint and put it all over a world. we find that a bit ‘McDonald’s’ in a approach.”

Some people contend maybe in a destiny a store will be roughly like a gallery or something—you won’t indeed do a offered there. You competence customarily go to see some of a product, and afterwards you’ll buy during home on a computer. Do we see it going in that instruction during all?

No, we unequivocally don’t. we see mechanism offered unequivocally for hosiery and undies and T-shirts and things we don’t give a shit [about]. If we need a span of tennis shorts, I’ll buy them online. we don’t unequivocally care. Not going to go and try on a span and see how my crippled looks. Who cares? But for things that we caring about—I mean, a coupler and a span of trousers, you’ve got to try them on. we don’t cruise anything’s altered in that regard. It’s unequivocally interesting—online art-buying. They’ve got Paddle8. Up to $10,000, people go, “Yeah, I’ll buy online. we suspect so. Who cares?” Anything some-more than [that], we buy a portrayal online that we haven’t seen with your eyes, we cruise you’re out of your mind. we don’t know what else to say. They’ve got Net-a-Porter, that creates it unequivocally easy that we can customarily lapse it. It’s a lot of hassle, offered and returning, offered and returning. My daughter says, “Oh, we adore Net-a-Porter given we try it on, and if we don’t like it we send it back.” we said, “No, what we do is go to Dad’s bureau and give it to a child who Fed Ex-es it back, is what we do. Not everybody can do that. That’s unequivocally not fair.”

I wanted to ask we about your demeanour given it’s apparently unequivocally distinctive, though it also seems to me it’s something in a proceed of personal branding. we don’t know if we demeanour during it that way, though it’s something that we cruise everybody is doing now, so maybe we were a tiny forward of that.

It’s … interesting. [laughs] I’ve got my look, though we don’t demeanour during it as branding given we don’t sell lipstick or redolence and it doesn’t get me anything. Do we know what we mean? we don’t sell anything, so it’s unequivocally funny. People say, “Do we wish to do this talk in a magazine? Do we wish to do this TV interview?” we go, “Why? It’s not going to get me a kind of clients that we need.” They go, “In sequence to get we famous!” And we go, “But for what?” we don’t sell lipstick. we don’t sell perfume. we don’t even sell jeans, Dirk. we don’t sell anything. So, we have a personal image, though we cruise that’s given I’m from an art credentials and I’m an artist and we cruise many artists do have personal images. we cruise myself some-more in that difficulty of a proceed an artist had a look. Certainly Andy [Warhol] with his blond wig suspicion that one by a lot. [laughs]

It’s a personal thing.

Yeah. Publicity doesn’t unequivocally get me anything. Clients are not going to sinecure me for a $100 million building given we have a brand. They unequivocally wish a product.

Have we had any pushback, maybe from some of these mid-level executives? Were they repelled by a proceed we dress?

Well, yes, that turn is repelled by a proceed we dress. But we find that a owners, who are unequivocally used to traffic with artistic people all a time, they don’t even notice. Do we know what we mean? They’re unequivocally used to traffic with artistic designers. we will contend it creates utterly a stir in a Middle East. [laughs]

When do we sleep?

That’s given God invented chemistry. 

See Also: The Future of Shopping, Part One: Tomas Maier

See Also: The Future of Shopping, Part Two: Frederico Marchetti

See Also: The Future of Shopping, Part Three: Mark Lee

source ⦿ http://www.style.com/trends/industry/2014/peter-marino-dirk-standen-interview

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